Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Barcelona: Great in Winter, and Probably Amazing in Summer


(Above: Placa Reial)

It appears that Barcelona had its winter coat on during my visit. The company was amazing (thanks to Karey, Ally and Marta), as were the sights and eats, but I was expecting the city to be more, for lack of a more refined word, "sparkly". Nevertheless, there were many architectural and gastronomic highlights. I just think I'll need to go back when its warmer to see Barcelona reveal it's true sparkle!



(L: Gaudi's La Pedrera, R: Casa Batllo)



(Left and Right: Gaudi's Sagrada Familia)

There is no doubt that Gaudi's architecture is unique and breathtaking, but I just didn't have it in me to pay 9 Euros and up for the priviledge of seeing his buildings up close. Maybe next trip. Now this disappointed me at first and temporarily soured me on Gaudi, until we went to his Park Guell, which is, quite possibly, another of my favorite places on earth. It also happens to be quite free of charge.


(L & R: Park Guell)


(L: View of the Mediterranean Sea, Sagrada Familia and Torre Agbar from atop Park Guell, C: my dream house on top of Park Guell, R: a football/soccer game overlooking the Mediterranean on top of Park Guell)


We spent the whole afternoon in awe of the park and its surprises and treasures that awaitied us as we climbed higher and turned ever corner. There are musicians all over the park, too, which gave us some nice background music to follow us through our explorations. I really loved this place, as did my traveling companions. See? Here we are looking very happy, indeed:


(From L to R: Karey, Me, Ally and Marta)


Barcelona at night is also captivating:


(L: Placa Catalunya, C: Placa Reial, R: Church of Santa Maria del Mar on Passeig del Born)
I loved the unique design of some of the storefronts:


(R: A magic store in the Born neighborhood, C: a bakery just off of Las Ramblas, R: an Irish pub on Carrer Ferran)

Surprisingly, both these buildings below were built at around the turn of the 20th Century. They seem much older:

(L & C: Palau de Musica Catalana, R: Barcelona's Bullring)

Here is a bit of the older style architecture from around the Barcelona Cathedral and the Placa de Colon:

(L: Barcelona Cathedral, C: Barcleona Cathedral, R: Monument to Christopher Columbus at the end of Las Ramblas)

Enough architecture. Let's talk art. We enjoyed the modern variety of art at The Picasso Museum. There was one room filled with Picasso's different versions of Velazques' "Las Meninas". Here is one:

And another painting I really liked from Picasso's earlier days, is "La Salchichona":

Later in his life, Picasso started making ceramic vases, plates, sculptures. I didn't know he made ceramics, so was pleasantly surprised.
There also an abundance of art in surprising places all around Barcelona:


(Clockwise from top left: Sculpture/buoy on Barcelona's waterfront, a waterfront sculpture by Roy Lichtenstein, creative walkway along the waterfront, modern metal gate near Barcelona Cathedral)

So, now, onto food and wine! We ate at some great places, most of them of the tapas variety, and there were some definite jems:
Taller de Tapas -- Great selection and ambiance
Cal Pep -- Gourmet tapas / diner, expect a wait, but also amazing food
Origens -- Has A visual menu magazine, small plates and good wine selection
Va de Vi -- Has atmosphere in spades (if you like hanging out in ancient wine cellar), features small cheese, bread and cured meat plates only plus a binderful of wine choices. Great before or after dinner spot
(L: Pan con Tomate or, in Catalan, pa amb tomàquet at Va di Vi; R: Monkfish with garlic chile oil and roasted potatoes at Cal Pep)

Some foods eaten: chipirones (fried baby squid), pimientos del padron (small roasted green peppers, pa amb tomàquet/pan con tomate, Moroccan spiced chicken skewers, roasted asparagus, fried artichokes, pineapple carpaccio with catalan cream, crema catalana, chistorra (Basque-style breakfast sausage), boutifarra amb mongetes (a lightly seasoned and grilled Catalan sausage with white beans) and Calçots (fried spring onion shoots).
Some wine drunk: Tinto de Tarragona (2007), Gine Gine Priorat (2005), Nita Priorat (2007), Onix Priorat (2005), Can Feixes Penedes (2005 ), Luis Alegre Rioja Crianza (2005) -- all except the last are from wine regions in Cataluña, where Barcelona is located. The region is also home to Cava, the sparkling Spanish wine similar to France's Champagne. Most sparkling wines tend to make me ill, so I abstained on this trip :-) All the wines we tried were either dirt-cheap and quaffable, or just slightly more expensive (10-20 Euros/bottle) and divine. My favorites were the Gine Gine Priorat and the Can Feixes Penedes.
(Above: Entrance of La Boqueria)
And now it's time for one of my other favorite places in the world, Mercat La Boqueria, where there are feet upon feet of produce, seafood, meats and prepared foods to be had. We went twice just to make sure we didn't miss any of the good, the interesting and the grotesque (blood cake, anyone?)


(Clockwise from top left: the pork purveyor's case, a cured meats counter, seafood seller's spread, Calcots/spring oniongs, the wild game vendor's display)
Here is the Barcelona crew again:

And a few parting shots of an impressive balcony garden that was a bright spot on an overcast day.
And a candle display displaying the Catalan word for peace during a anti-Israel demonstration we happened upon. Okay, fine, it was also an anti-American protest, too. I chose not to focus on that, though. Let's just all focus on peace, people!

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